When travellers think of Cambodia, Angkor Wat immediately comes to mind. But far from the crowds of Siem Reap, hidden in the remote countryside near the Thai border, lies Banteay Chhmar, one of Cambodia’s most magnificent but least visited temple complexes.
Banteay Chhmar offers an authentic, peaceful experience of ancient Khmer history, where you can explore sprawling ruins covered in jungle vines without a single tour group in sight. It’s the kind of place where you can hear the wind rustling through the trees, the crunch of leaves underfoot, and the quiet whispers of a forgotten empire.
The History of Banteay Chhmar
Built during the late 12th or early 13th century under King Jayavarman VII, Banteay Chhmar was part of a network of defensive temples and outposts. It was once a thriving city and religious centre, but after centuries of neglect, the complex became overgrown and partially reclaimed by nature.
The name Banteay Chhmar means “The Citadel of the Cat” and the temple is often compared to Angkor Thom and Bayon, but with a fraction of the visitors.
Although many of its carvings have been lost to looting, the site still showcases intricate bas-reliefs, serene stone faces, and collapsed galleries that invite curious explorers.
Why Visit Banteay Chhmar?
1. Crowd-Free Exploration
Unlike the packed pathways of Angkor Wat, Banteay Chhmar is blissfully quiet. You can explore at your own pace, climb over fallen stones, and stand alone among the ancient towers. It’s a chance to experience the raw, undiscovered side of Cambodia’s history.
2. Stunning Bas-Reliefs
The outer galleries of Banteay Chhmar are adorned with bas-reliefs depicting battles, daily life, and Avalokiteshvara (the bodhisattva of compassion). Although some carvings have been damaged or stolen, the surviving details are beautiful and rich in storytelling.
3. The Bayon-Style Faces
Like the more famous Bayon temple in Angkor Thom, Banteay Chhmar features towers with enigmatic stone faces. These serene visages gaze out over the temple walls, lending an air of quiet majesty to the ruins.
4. Local Village Experience
The nearby village offers community-based tourism (CBT) initiatives where travellers can stay in homestays, participate in local activities like fishing or weaving, and enjoy traditional Khmer meals prepared by villagers.
Things to Do at Banteay Chhmar
- Temple Exploration: Spend hours wandering through the temple’s crumbling corridors, towers, and courtyards. The sense of discovery here is thrilling and deeply personal.
- Sunrise and Sunset Visits: With no entry barriers or large tour groups, you can experience the temple bathed in soft morning light or glowing at sunset in almost complete solitude.
- Cycling Through the Countryside: Rent a bicycle and explore the surrounding villages, rice fields, and peaceful rural roads.
- Stay in a Homestay: Experience genuine Cambodian hospitality and enjoy local food in a traditional village setting.
- Visit the Baray (Ancient Reservoir): Once an essential part of the temple’s water system, the ancient baray is still visible and adds to the historical intrigue of the site.
Where to Stay
Banteay Chhmar is remote, so accommodation options are mainly community-run homestays that offer simple but comfortable lodgings with home-cooked meals. This is a fantastic way to directly support the local economy and immerse yourself in village life.
Getting to Banteay Chhmar
- From Siem Reap: The temple is about 170 km northwest of Siem Reap, roughly a 4 to 5-hour drive. Private taxis or local buses can take you to the nearby town of Sisophon, where you can arrange transport to the site.
- From Battambang: Banteay Chhmar is approximately a 3-hour drive from Battambang, making it a manageable day trip or overnight excursion.
The remoteness is part of what keeps this site peaceful and preserved.
Banteay Chhmar is a temple for the true explorer. It offers a glimpse into Cambodia’s magnificent past without the barriers of crowds, ropes, or tour schedules. If you’ve ever dreamed of wandering through ancient ruins where nature has started to reclaim the stone, this hidden gem will exceed your expectations.
For those who wish to connect with history, support local communities, and experience Cambodia off the beaten path, Banteay Chhmar is a rewarding and unforgettable destination.
